When you grow up in the South, green beans are an unavoidable part of life. As a kid, I remember being ordered to at least “try” my green beans, which invariably stared back at me on the plate longer than most of my meal–alone, and in true Southern style, a bit squishy from cooking long and low in a broth of bacon fat, butter and salt. As I got older, I began to love these porky beans, despite the fact that they bore so little resemblance to the beautiful, slender haricots verts that I saw in the grocery store and the occasional salad Nicoise. About 6 years ago, however, I stopped eating pigs and found myself in a little bit of a problem in the vegetation-consumption department. I had become so accustomed to eating vegetables that tasted like meat that the elimination of meat from my diet became, for a time, quite depressing–as my diet descended into Blandsville (population More Than You’d Think).
Fortunately, my cooking has improved significantly since those terrible times, and I have made it my life’s mission to cook and eat vegetarian food that is as delicious as it is pork-(and chicken, and beef)free…and, here, to share it with you. With that in mind, today’s recipes are veggie riffs on classic home-style/meat-and-three sides, which I think are even better than the originals.
The green beans are from Bryant Terry’s Vegan Soul Kitchen, and despite the fact that they are decidedly Not My Mama’s Green Beans, they are incredibly good–and in fact, I can assure you that she approves (I fed them to her on Christmas Eve, in fact). They’re topped with roasted shallots and walnuts, which add an extra pop of flavor with a satisfying crunch. So, to start, preheat the oven to 425, and toss 4 big shallots in a bit of olive oil and lay them out on a baking sheet. When the oven is ready, roast the shallots until the outer skin is blackened and the inside is tender (you may need to toss them a bit midway through to get an even char).
While this is happening, boil a pot of water with 1 tbsp. salt, and toss in 1 pound of green beans, with the stem ends snapped off. Cook for 4-5 minutes until they’re tender, but still have a bit of crunch. IMPORTANT: Don’t let them get much past bright green (they’ll turn Southern-style yellow-brown if you cook them too long. Sorry, y’all, but brown beans are not cute! Or tasty, for that matter). When they’ve cooked long enough, drop them into cold water to stop the cooking, and then drain in a colander.
Finally, to make the dressing, whisk together the following in a large bowl:
- 1/4 cup lemon juice
- 2 Tbsp. red wine or apple cider vinegar
- 2 tsp. Dijon mustard
- 2 tsp. maple syrup (or honey)
- 2 cloves minced garlic
- 1 Tbsp. fresh thyme (or 1 tsp. dry)
- 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
- Black pepper to taste
When the dressing comes together, toss the beans in it. Remove the shallots from the oven and (carefully!) cut off the tops, so that you can squeeze out the soft roasted-shallot-goodness. Give the newly skinned roasted shallots a chop, and toss these in with the beans and dressing. Finally, to serve, top with 1/4 cup toasted chopped walnuts. Crunchy, tangy, sweet, savory, and all-around amazing. I really, really love these green beans.
The complexity of flavor involved in the green beans went well with our fingerling potatoes, which were very simple. Josh found this recipe on Ina Garten’s website–he’s a die hard Barefoot Contessa fan, and really, who can blame him?–and he prepared the potatoes while I took care of the beans. You can read the recipe at the link above, but basically, it really only requires cooking the whole fingerlings in water, salt and butter, and then tossing them with fresh dill. I’m less familiar with dill than many other herbs (since it doesn’t make much of an appearance in Southern or Louisiana cooking except in the form of pickles), but I was really pleased with how well these turned out. I think the simple and comforting texture of the fingerlings was a nice compliment to the refreshing flavor of dill…and the whole thing felt very French, which was fun.
And then, of course, we ate these delicacies with roasted tofu, which I love–but which I’ll leave out of the discussion for now. Baby steps, I say. Today: veggies without pork, perhaps tomorrow: the joys of soy. You know what they say, about the building of Rome and whatnot…