When Josh was a kid, his great-grandmother used to make traditional Lebanese food for family gatherings. After she died, the old-style food was mostly replaced with new American fare, and so Josh never learned to replicate Lebanese cooking on his own–a fact which he has bemoaned as long as I’ve known him, especially with regard to his great-grandma’s famous cabbage rolls. Now, this particular choice always seemed a bit odd to me: when I was a kid, the word “cabbage” itself was enough to send me running for the hills, so it was almost inconceivable to me that a child would not only have eaten cabbage rolls, but loved and remembered them clearly enough to want to replicate them as an adult. But now, having finally tried them for myself…well, let’s just say that it makes a lot more sense.
Our cabbage roll breakthrough happened with (surprise, surprise) a new Lebanese Cookbook, which we also got for Christmas this year. It turns out that making cabbage rolls is a pretty complicated and time-consuming process, so most of what I’ll recount for you here comes straight from the book.
The first thing to do is to make the filling, which is primarily a rice mixture. In a bowl, we combined the following:
- 1 cup rice
- 2 cups chopped parsley
- 1/2 cup chopped mint
- 4 cloves minced garlic
- 1 medium white onion, finely chopped
- 1/2 cup lemon juice
- 2 tsp salt
- 1/2 tsp cinnamon
- 1/2 tsp allspice
- 1/2 cup olive oil
While that was happening, we put a big pot of water on to boil, in order to commence the most difficult part of the process: unwrapping the head of cabbage with the leaves intact. Basically, what this involves is blanching the whole head of cabbage in a giant pot of boiling water, taking it out, and removing the outermost leaves. Once you get these off, you put the head of cabbage back into the boiling water (while trying not to burn yourself) in order to soften the next leaves. It’s a huge pain in the butt, takes forever, and involves–at least, if you’re like us and have no idea what you’re doing–a bit of flesh-scorching. If you know of an easier way, I’d love to hear about it.
Anyway, once we got individual leaves off the cabbage head, we sliced the leaves in half, taking out the ribs–to be used later. Into each half-cabbage leaf, we rolled about 1-2 teaspoons of the filling. And then it was time to put them all into the pot.
Into the bottom of the pot, we put all of the reserved cabbage ribs, to protect the rolls from direct heat. We then arranged to stuffed, rolled leaves in layered rows on top, sprinkling sliced garlic between each layer (I never said this was light on garlic, people!).
After everything was neatly (and tightly) arranged, it was time to add the cooking liquid (the rice is uncooked, remember?). Over the rolls, we poured:
- 1/2 cup tomato puree mixed with 1 cup water
- enough water to cover the rolls
- 1 tsp salt
Of course, to make sure that everything holds together in the water, we needed some way to keep the leaves compressed. Since we’d not thought ahead enough to realize that we should have used a pot big enough to accommodate a heavy plate on top of the leaves, we used a round Pyrex baking dish that fit inside just enough to keep the leaves snug. With the dish in place, we brought the whole thing to a boil and then reduced it to a simmer for 20 minutes.
Finally, we mixed together
- 1/2 cup lemon juice and
- 1 1/2 tsp mint
and poured this over the top before cooking for another 5 minutes. After the cooking time was complete, we set the whole thing aside to cool for about half an hour.
Involved, right? Clearly this is not a weeknight meal. I think it’s technically a side dish, but when you’ve put so much effort into something, eating it on its own is pretty satisfying as well. We ate ours with a bit of tzatziki and crusty bread…and seriously? They were amazing. A-mazing. The combination of lemon and mint and garlic is incredibly satisfying: super flavorful without being overpowering, if you can believe it. They’re quite similar to the stuffed grape leaves you might get at a Greek restaurant, but–in my opinion–with a better texture, both because of the use of cabbage (which isn’t as stringy or fibrous) and because of the sharp reduction in oil content, which tends to be the overwhelming characteristic of grape leaves, especially if you buy them in the store. Additionally, this recipe makes so many cabbage rolls that you can have them for several days (they keep well if you stack them in a plastic container in the fridge), so it (sort of) makes up for all the time spent.
And truthfully, I’d make them again tomorrow if I (which is to say, Josh, since he was the one taking burns for the team) could figure out a better way to harvest the cabbage leaves. If only we could ask Great-grandma M. From the stories Josh tells, she wouldn’t suffer fools–or scalding cabbage water–gladly.